How to Crochet an Invisible Decrease

After the magic ring, what’s the one other technique you need if you want to create beautifully finished amigurumi? The invisible decrease (abbreviated invdec) – it’s absolutely invaluable.

What is an Invisible Decrease?

The invisible decrease (invdec) really is as good as its name claims – it’s almost impossible to see, even if you’re looking for it! You’ll have no more bumpy or gappy decreases once you’ve mastered this technique – all your stitches will look smooth and even.

Standard decreasing methods (sc2tog or skipping stitches) leave a bump or gap when you decrease. The invisible decrease (invdec) method is different: it’s practically invisible, even if you know what you’re looking for! (See my blog post for a comparison of the three methods.)

Why does it work so well? The magic behind the invdec is that it groups the previous stitches together at its base, so the stitch itself looks identical to a regular single crochet.

The invisible decrease method will probably take a few attempts to master, but, just like the magic ring, it’s one of those techniques that’s so good, you’ll wonder how you ever crocheted without it!

I recommend you watch the video to see the method in action, but in case you prefer text or want something visual to refer to, I’ve also made a photo tutorial version for you.

Quick finder:

• Video Tutorial (right- and left-handed)
• Invisible Decrease Tips
• When to Use Invisible Decreases
• Step-by-Step Instructions (right-handed)
• Step-by-Step Instructions (left-handed)

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Invisible Decrease for Amigurumi – Video (right-handed)

Click to watch this video on YouTube.

Invisible Decrease for Amigurumi – Video (left-handed)

Click to watch this video on YouTube.

Note: The videos may look a little small embedded in the blog: if so, you can fullscreen them or click through to YouTube to watch them full-sized 🙂

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Invisible Decrease Tips

Invdec is a little tricky to get the hang of, and there are two points during the decrease where you can accidentally lengthen your stitch so it isn’t neat and tight, and the resulting decrease will be far more obvious.

I’ll demonstrate these invdec problem points, so you know where the pitfalls are, and how to avoid them. You’ll find this tutorial useful if:

• You’re new to the invisible decrease technique (watch my video tutorial before you continue reading this!)
• You’ve tried invdec but been disappointed by your results
• Your invdecs look inconsistent, gappy, or too prominent
• You want your amigurumi to look as good as possible!

A Note about Tension

Although maintaining consistent tension on your yarn is a skill you need to master in order to crochet anything beautifully, it’s vitally important for amigurumi, as you need your stitches to be tight and even to produce the regular, firm amigurumi fabric that allows us to create complex ami shaping, and hides your stuffing. I’ve seen some people recommend that you tug on your yarn after every stitch to tighten it up, but that isn’t necessary if you maintain consistent tension.

Tensioning your yarn is a balance between the hook pulling forward and your other hand pulling backward.

How do you do that? Well, while your hook is pulling the yarn forward, your non-hook hand is simultaneously pulling back on the yarn, so you use a controlled amount of yarn to form each stitch. (You probably do this without even realising you’re doing it; if the yarn could just slide freely through your fingers with no tension, your hook would pull up large, inconsistent loops, and your crochet would look sloppy.)

When I talk below about pulling back on the yarn so the working loop is tight around your hook, the goal is to bring the tension back to your standard level, so the working loop should be the same size and tightness as it is for all your other stitches. If you go too far and pull it extra-tight, you’ll just make it more difficult to work back into that stitch in the following round.

Perfecting the invdec

If you look at the top of an invdec stitch, you’ll see there’s a ‘V’ at either side of the decrease. (As invisible decreases are practically indistinguishable from the surrounding stitches, I’ve crocheted my samples with the invdecs and the surrounding top loops in a different colour, so you can see what I’m talking about!)

Left: The source of the problems is these extra-long Vs at the top of the stitches surrounding the invdec.
Right: Invdec done correctly, with the Vs the same length as in the surrounding stitches.

These two Vs (A and B) are the culprits – if either or both of these is lengthened, there’ll be extra space around the invdec and it can look gappy or sloppy.

Left: The lengthened Vs have left a larger gap at either side of the invdec.
Right: Invdec is indistinguishable from the surrounding stitches (except for my helpful colour change!)

Loop A

Checkpoint: When you begin an invdec stitch, as you’re swinging the hook around to get the tip through both front loops, the working loop (the one that was already on your hook before you started the stitch) tends to loosen up.

Fix this: Once you’ve inserted your hook under the two front loops, and before you yarn over, tug the yarn to make sure the working loop is still tight on your hook and hasn’t lengthened.

Left: Lengthened working loop on hook will cause a loose stitch.
Right: Tightened loop – perfect!

Loop B

Checkpoint: After you complete the invdec, you’ve just turned 2 stitches into 1 stitch, and your hook is now further back than it usually would be for starting a new stitch. So this is another point where your yarn can make an extra-long loop, as you bring your hook forward over that extra distance to begin the next stitch.

Left: The position of the hook after a sc stitch.
Right: After an invdec, the hook is further back (dotted line marks the usual position), so there’s a greater distance to reach the next stitch.

Fix this: Make sure you keep tension on your yarn, so the loop on your hook doesn’t stretch out as you insert your hook into the stitch after the invdec. (If, after inserting your hook to begin the next stitch, you see the working loop has lengthened, just pull the yarn so the working loop is tight around your hook again, before you yarn over and continue with the stitch.)

Left: Lengthened working loop after inserting hook into next stitch.
Right: Tightened loop – perfect!

Multiple Decreases

The potential problem is doubled when you’re working 2 invdecs in a row, as you have the ‘too far back’ effect (Checkpoint B) and the ‘swinging the hook’ effect (Checkpoint A) both acting on the same loop, so you should make a little extra effort to be conscious of the size of the loop on your hook, and make sure it stays tight and doesn’t lengthen.

Invisible Decrease Perfected!

With a little extra effort to make sure you’re maintaining consistent tension, even while you decrease, your stitches will all stay the same size, and your invdecs will be as invisible as advertised!

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When to Use Invisible Decreases

In addition to the obvious use in amigurumi, you can also use the invisible decrease for any piece worked in single crochet, in the round, without turning (e.g. hats).

As each invdec leaves two unworked loops visible from the reverse side, you won’t want to use it for anything where you turn between rows/rounds, or where both sides will be on display.

For projects like amigurumi and hats, the backs of the stitches are always hidden on the inside, so the unworked loops won’t show from the front of the finished pieces, and all you see is smooth and even decreases.

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Invisible Decrease – Step-by-Step Instructions (right-handed)

Starting position (below, left). Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (2 loops on hook, below, right). DO NOT YARN OVER.

Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch. To do this, you’ll need to first swing the hook down (below, left) so you can insert the hook under the front loop (3 loops on hook, below, right).

Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (2 loops on hook, below, left). Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook (invdec completed, below, right).

Now let’s play a game: spot the decrease…

Good, huh? Give it a go with your next ami – I promise you won’t regret it…

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Invisible Decrease – Step-by-Step Instructions (left-handed)

Starting position (below, left). Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (2 loops on hook, below, right). DO NOT YARN OVER.

Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch. To do this, you’ll first need to swing the hook down (below, left) so you can insert the hook under the front loop (3 loops on hook, below, right).

Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (2 loops on hook, below, left). Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook (invdec completed, below, right).

Now let’s play a game: spot the decrease…

Good, huh? Give it a go with your next ami – I promise you won’t regret it…

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Loved this tutorial? I have so many more amigurumi tips and tricks to share with you!

Boost your amigurumi skills with my latest book, The Essential Guide to Amigurumi, your comprehensive guide to amigurumi techniques and tips.

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