PlanetJune Craft Blog

Latest news and updates from June

Magic Ring (right-handed)

Link easily to this tutorial in your patterns:

Looking for the left-handed instructions? Or the video tutorial? If not, read on…

What is this ‘Magic Ring’, anyway?

A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in the round by crocheting over an adjustable loop and then pulling the loop tight. The advantage of the magic ring method (below, right) is that, unlike the regular “chain 2, x single crochet in 2nd chain from hook” method (below, left), there is no hole left in the middle of your starting round.

magic ring vs traditional method
L: ch2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each st around.
R: magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in magic ring, 2 sc in each st around.

How do I make a Magic Ring?

Please note: in the following photos, the starting yarn tail is always on the left and hanging down. The working yarn begins on the right and is then picked up over my left forefinger in Step 2.

This demonstration shows a piece made using the following pattern:

Make a magic ring, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. ( 6 st)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 st)

If you’re following a different pattern, you’d complete steps 1-2 of this tutorial exactly as shown below, then work the chain and the stitches of Rnds 1 and 2 as specified in your pattern.

  1. Make a loop a few inches from the end of your yarn. Grasp the join of the loop (where the 2 strands of yarn overlap) between your left thumb and forefinger:
    magic ring
  2. Insert hook into the loop from front to back. Draw up a loop:
    magic ring
  3. Ch 1 (or as many as stated in your pattern). Note: this does NOT count as a stitch:
    magic ring
  4. Insert hook into the loop, so you are crocheting over the loop and the yarn tail. Draw up a loop to begin your first sc of Rnd 1:
    magic ring
  5. Complete the sc. Continue to crochet over the loop and the yarn tail until you have the required number of sc for your first round (6 sc shown here):
    magic ring
  6. Grab the yarn tail and pull to draw the centre of the ring tightly closed:
    magic ring
  7. Begin your second round by crocheting into the first stitch of the first round (below, left). At the end of round 2 your work will look like this (below, right):
    magic ring

You’ll never go back to your old method again, I promise!


  1. Sandra said

    Great tutorial. I had to try it three or fout times before I got it right, but now I have it down. No more holes!

  2. Etha said

    hehe, I just looked it up because it was mentioned in the patterns that I bought. I know no other way of starting a crochet ring, so I guess I’m good :)

  3. […] Magic ring är en fiffig metod för att få en fin och tight mittpunkt när du vill virka något runt och den kan du lära dig här. […]

  4. Louetta Lee said

    Thank You June!!! For the first time, now I really understand! I have been crocheting for many years and have never used this trick. Thanks for all the effort and trouble you took to make it so clear. Your directions are great and are much appreciated! I will now use this technique forever!

    Blessings and Best Wishes

    Louetta Lee

  5. […] for me, there was a power cut! I spent the 3 hours that power was out learning how to make a magic ring. By the end of the cut I not only had a magic ring, I had a small pink ball of amigurumi! […]

  6. Thank you! I always wondered how this was done. Your directions were easy to understand too. =)

  7. I’m so new at this and need help working on a hotpad with circle design. Round 1 with DC, then round 2 with 2 DC in each stich, so is Round 3 done with 2 DC’s also or do I have to go to 3 DC in each stitch and then 4 in each stich for round 4, etc.??
    I’m getting like a wavy pad and I want it to lie flat.

    • June said

      Hi Anna, the formula you need is to make the same number of increases in each round. So:

      • Rnd 3 will be “2 DC in next st, DC in next st” repeated around
      • Rnd 4 will be “2 DC in next st, DC in next 2 st” repeated around
      • Rnd 5 will be “2 DC in next st, DC in next 3 st” repeated around

      Do you see the pattern? Hope that helps!

      • Mindy said

        Hey there it’s me Mindy again,

        Just wanna know if you start your increases per round like you say RND 3 “2 DC IN NEXT STITCH, DC IN NEXT STITCH” Instead can you reverse this and say RND 3 1DC IN NEXT STITCH , 2 DC IN NEXT STITCH” etc.

        Basically, what I’m asking is do you have to increase in the first stitch of RND 3, or can you increase in the second stitch right around?

        • June said

          Mindy, they are both equivalent, so you can do whichever you prefer (or whichever your pattern specifies) :)

  8. Cindy said

    Thank you for your easy and informative directions. I’m getting over back surgery so I’ve picked the old crochet hooks up and am keeping myself busy making some Christmas presents. I’ve bookmarked your page! Thank you again.

  9. Julie said

    This is a little off the beaten path perhaps, but since you seem to be answering questions….. may I ask one?

    First, your magic ring instructions are great! Now that I have that down, I am still having trouble with increasing rings. All patterns say, sl st into ch to finish off a row. I have a very hard time knowing which stitch IS my ch – whether it is sc or dc, I think they all look like they could be the one! Is there a trick to marking this stitch or somehow identifying it as I come around the ring?

    Thanks very much in advance,

    • June said

      Julie, I’m always happy to help with crochet questions! There’s a very easy way to mark the stitch: use a stitch marker. This can be a plastic stitch marker (like the ones I sell – see my link), or you could use a bobby pin or even a scrap of a contrasting colour yarn. When you make that ‘ch 1′ or ‘ch 3′ (or whatever) at the start of the round, slip your stitch marker into the last chain you made, before continuing onto the first proper stitch of the round. Then when you’ve completed the stitches of the round you’ll know you need to join with a sl st into the marked ch. It’s a foolproof method!

  10. Jeanne said

    These are great instructions and have really helped me. My question may be a dumb one, but are you working in the tail of the loop into the second round? Does that stop it from sliding open agail?

    Thanks for your help.


    • June said

      Jeanne, no, you don’t work over the tail after Rnd 1 – it shouldn’t come open again if you pull it tightly closed. If you have a really slippery yarn and you find it does start coming open again (although I’ve never experienced that) you could work over the tail in Rnd 2, as you suggest, or pull it back closed again after you’ve crocheted some more and then knot the end around the inside of one of the stitches. As I say, I’ve never needed to try it though – if your ring doesn’t stay closed I’d try pulling the ring more tightly closed before attempting anything else.

      • Jeanne said

        Thanks for the suggestions. If it’s strange…it will probably happen to me! And I am working with a wild kind of yarn so that may be the problem. I love this technique and I might be able to go back to thread crochet now.

        Thanks also, for answering so fast. I’m just starting a project and appreciate the information.

  11. Eve said

    This is great, I’ve never seen a very good “magic loop” description before and so never got it right, but now I’ve got it, thank you! ^_^ Also easier to teach to those who are new to crotcheting.

    Usually I’ve done a variation of “ch2…” but not exactly the same, so I got a spiral instead of a hole in the middle. When I got it right that is! ^_~

  12. JessieMomma said

    WOW! Thanks so much! I’ve been making hats and h-ATE the stupid hole in the middle…. I had NO idea how to make it tighter. Thank you SO much, my babies heads will <3 you!


  13. Bridget said

    LOVE IT!! You made a real promise!

  14. Petra said

    Wow! Thanks for these instructions. It’s such an epiphany when you get it right for the first time! :)

  15. LKK said

    First off, a great tutorial! Thank you so much for this.

    Secondly, I have a question I hope you won’t mind answering. I noticed that at the start of Round 2, you didn’t chain stitch before your first single crochet as you would in the traditional method. My question is for Round 3 and all subsequent rounds, do you or don’t you chain stitch before the crochet stitches?

    • June said

      That’s right, you don’t chain at the start of each round, because you’re working in a continuous spiral. At the end of each round, you don’t join with a sl st to the first st of the round and then ch 1 to begin the next round. Instead, you make the first st of the next round directly into the first stitch of the previous round.

      It’s a neat method because you end up with no seam at all – every stitch looks the same as every other! You just have to be careful not to lose your place (that’s why I recommend you always mark the 1st st of each rnd with a stitch marker) – otherwise it’s very difficult to work out how far through a rnd you are!

      • LKK said

        Thank you very much for your reply. Right now, I’m working on a little mouse (my very first real project!) using the traditional round method. But when I’m done with this one, I plan to try the mouse again using the magic ring method. I’m sure the magic ring version will look better because I can already see the seam you mentioned in my current stitching.

  16. Lucille Hanselman said

    This is the first time I even heard of the Magic Ring and I love it. Thank you for such a great tutorial.

  17. Amii said

    Came across your website when googling for images of a poinsettia and am sooo delighted!

    I learned to crochet last year (it was something my Grandma always did but I never took it up until she’d had a stroke and could no longer hold her yarn and hooks. She passed away this year and I’m so proud that I can carry on the craft).

    Explanation of magic ring is perfect. Definitely useful for all the hats I make to keep out the cold British weather.

  18. Lindsay said

    For some reason when I go to pull the string after completing the the six stitches it pulls halfway and then stops, is there something I’m doing wrong?

    • June said

      Lindsay, two possibilities (that I can think of):

      1. You’ve twisted the yarn end around and around the loop as you crocheted over it, which makes it more difficult to pull.
      2. It can take a little more force than you’d expect to pull the ring tightly closed – maybe you’re not pulling hard enough.

      I’d try giving the yarn end a really hard tug and see if it closes up the ring. At worst, if the yarn breaks, you’ve only made 1 Rnd so far so you can just start again!

      And another tip: I find it’s easier sometimes to close the ring completely after completing 2 or 3 rounds – as long as you’ve closed it enough to bring the first and last stitches reasonably close together, you can continue onto Rnd 2 and then do the final tug to completely close the ring when you’ve completed a bit more of the piece. It might help :)

  19. Richard said

    Wonderful directions for the Magic Ring! I have only been crocheting for 3 months now and I can use all the information I can get. I hope you and yours have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

  20. Alene said

    I’ve used the magic ring for the 1st time and in a snowflake pattern that has an open hole in the center. What do I do with the tail thread that remains afterward to secure it? My work is already complete and I have a long tail hanging from the center. I saw other posts from other websites that said to knot it, but I don’t understand how that would work. What do you suggest? Please be specific.

    • June said

      I suggest you thread it onto a yarn needle and thread it right the way around the ring, inside the stitches of Rnd 1 (so it’s following the path of the loop you made originally). That will help to secure it so it won’t come undone. Then you can snip off the yarn.

  21. Marie said

    Thanks, this rocks!

  22. claire said

    hey! great tutorial, i did it right the first try! thanks a lot

  23. […] Cast on 6 chains using the magic ring – 6 stitches R2: 2 double chains (british stitches) in each stitch  (12) R3: 1 dc in the […]

  24. Colleen Burns said

    Hi June,

    I just wanted to say thank you so much for these instructions, I was about to give up on learning how to do the magic ring when I cam across this. It will make the Easter eggs I am creating for my one year old daughter’s first real Easter (she was born Dec 23, 2010) much nicer and safer. Thank you again.

    Happy Crocheting,

    Colleen Burns

  25. Denise said

    HI! Thanks for such a simple way to learn the magic ring. I have followed online video tutorials and many written explanations. Yours is by far the best. I followed your instructions once through and got it right away. Other methods I have spent several tries to get it right and never did. Great job and great instructions. Thank you so much for making the magic ring so easy!!!!!

  26. Kara said

    Hi June,

    I’m a beginner to crochet and I’m having trouble with one of the hat patterns I bought offline. The first step for one says to chain 3 and then in 3rd chain from hook dc 14, but if I only made 3 chains I don’t understand how I can work 14 double crochets? Hope this makes sense to you. Thanks!

    • June said

      Hi Kara, the pattern means you to make all 14 dc into the same chain (the 3rd chain from the hook). If you prefer, you could instead replace those instructions with a magic ring: make a magic ring, ch 3, make 14 dc into the magic ring.

  27. Taru said

    Hi! Thank You for Your wonderful instructions. Those were very helpful. :-)

  28. Lili said

    I am completely confused about one thing.
    Do you, or do you not slip stitch or chain when using the Magic Ring Technique?

    In one of the comments you said no, and that’s why there would be no seam, like there would be if you used the traditional method of crochet in the round.

    However, when another person post about doing 14 double crochet stitches in the 3rd chain from hook which is the traditional method, you said you could convert that to the magic ring method by chaining 3, and making 14 double crochet stitches into the ring.

    So, do you chain or not? Is it only in single crochet that you don’t have to chain?

    Also, I have been to several websites like Ravelry, and Crochet Cabana etc., and they all say that you DO chain and slip stitch, even when using just single crochet stitches when you use the Magic Ring Technique. They said even if you use a combination of stitches like say 10 single crochet in the first round, and 20 double crochet in the second round, you must chain, and slip stitch like in the traditional method.

    Please be VERY SPECIFIC, when you have to chain, and or slip stitch while using the Magic Ring Technique.

    • June said

      Lili, I’m sorry you’re confused. There are 2 places where you could chain, and I’ll go through both separately for you:

      1. At the beginning, after you make the loop, you must ch 1 (for sc, or 3 for dc, or however many to get to the height of the stitch you’re making) before you can begin crocheting Rnd 1.
      2. At the end of each round, you have two options, and this is the same whether you use the magic ring technique to begin, or not. It totally depends on the pattern you’re using (or your preference if you’re not using a pattern). The standard way to make amigurumi is to work in sc in a continuous spiral, so no sl st and ch 1 at the end of each round – just keep going and going. If you want, you can work in joined rounds instead (sl st at the end of each round, then ch to begin the new round) – this will give you a visible seam, but may be preferable if you’re crocheting each round in a different colour and want to avoid the ‘jog’ where you change colour. If you’re using dc or a different stitch, your pattern will most likely tell you to use the joined rounds method (sl st then ch) instead of a spiral (no sl st or ch).

      I hope that’s clear – when you start with a magic ring, you can then choose to work in a continuous spiral, or in joined rounds, or even in joined, turned rounds (where you turn the work at the end of each round, as with many afghan square patterns worked in the round). The method for ending each round and starting the next depends on your pattern and not on whether you began with a magic ring or with a traditional “ch X, make Y stitches in Zth ch from hook” start.

      • Lili said

        Hello June,

        First off let me thank you so very much for your clear explanation, and timely response. You don’t know how much I appreciate it!

        I have a few more questions for you to please answer for me. I would really appreciate it.

        1) In your response when you said that “when you crochet each round in a different colour, and want to avoid the ‘jog’ “, what does ‘jog’ stand for / mean? I am new to crochet so I don’t know all the abbreviations, and lingo, yet.

        2) When writing your own patterns, must all patterns start with an even number of stitches like Rnd 1, 6 SC, or is it okay to start with an odd number of stitches like Rnd 1, 5 SC?

        3) I am trying to write out a few flower patterns of my own. The one I am working on now is the yellow flower with an orange center. The exact flower that Dot Warner wears in her hair. (Dot Warner is from Animaniacs in case you didn’t know her. If you google the name “Dot Warner”, you will see her picture. She is hard to miss, because she is really cute, and she always has a yellow flower in her hair. :-)

        The following is the 3 different options I have come up with for the orange center of Dot’s flower. Now, keep in mind the orange part is not very big, but I don’t know which option to choose, and I need your help.

        Please note, I am using the magic ring technique for starting each of these circles.

        Option A) Rnd 1, 10 sc
        Rnd 2, 20 dc
        Now, for this circle (option A), I do slip stitch, and chain 3, at the end of Rnd 1, because I am going from sc to dc. I know, I can skip the slip stitch, and just chain 3, but I think it’s better to slip stitch, and then chain 3, right?

        Option B) Rnd 1, 10 sc
        Rnd 2, 3 in each stitch around = 30 sc
        I have never seen 3 in each stitch before in a pattern, and I’m not even sure is this is the right thing to do, ever?

        Option C) Rnd 1, 10 sc
        Rnd 2, 2 sc in each stitch around = 20 sc
        Rnd 3, 2 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in next stitch
        repeat around = 30 sc

        For the above 2 last options b, and c, I didn’t slip stitch or chain at the begining of the 2nd, or 3rd row, because I was working in only single crochet stitches.

        The reason I needed 30 stitches total in the last round of the circle is because Dot Warner has 5 petals total in her flower, and each petal I made 5 stitches wide to give it that square shape, and I have a single stitch in between each petal so it would look better.

        Therefore for the petals this is what I came up with.
        I pick up the orange circle, and attach my yellow yarn, and go around the circle as follows:

        1 sc, 1 dc, 3 treble crochet, 1 dc, 1 sc, repeat round 5 times.

        June, I hope this was not confusing to you. I am really trying hard. Crochet is brand new to me, and I have never written a pattern before. I would really LOVE to crochet Dot’s flower. I would really appreciate all your help. Thank you so very much!!


        • Lili said

          Oh, June, I forgot in option A) to add the 3rd round. So again, Option A is: Rnd 1, 10 sc
          Rnd 2, 2 dcin each stitch =20
          Rnd 3, 2 sc in each stitch, 1sc
          in next stitch, repeat
          around = 30 sc

          Thank you, June.

        • June said


          To see the ‘jog’ I’m talking about, try this:

          Make a magic ring, ch 1. Crochet in a spiral throughout.
          Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 st)
          Rnd 2: change to a different colour, sc in each st around. (6 st)
          Rnd 3: change back to the first colour, sc in each st around. (6 st)

          You’ll see that there’s a height difference between the start and end of each round, so the ends of the stripe of the second colour don’t match up – that’s the ‘jog’.

          I discuss this more fully, and have lots of tips for designing (including how many stitches you should put into your magic ring and why!) in my book, The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Amigurumi – you may find it helpful if you have more questions like these.

          As for your other questions, if you’re designing a crochet pattern, there is no right and wrong! All you need to do is make some samples (as you’ve done) and see which you prefer. Is the flower ruffling up instead of staying flat in some of your examples? Are there big spaces between some of the stitches that don’t look good? Just examine each flower closely and decide which you like best, and that’s the right answer. If it looks like Dot’s flower, you’ve done it right!

          • Lili said

            Thank you so much June for the confidence. I appreciate all your help.

            I just have 2 more questions for you about the magic ring, and I’m all set after this.

            While using the magic ring, if you have a first round of single crochet stitches, and then you have a second round of double crochet stitches, you still will have to chain 3 at the begining of the second round, right? Do you have to slip stitch, because you have gone from single crochet to double crochet?

            And finally…
            If you have a first round of double crochet stitches, and then a second round of double crochet stitches, do you still have to chain 3 at the begining of the second round? And do you have to slip stitch at the end of each round?

            Thank you June once again for all your help.
            I will definitely check your book out.


          • June said

            To start a round of double crochet, which is a tall stitch, you need to ch 3 first to get your hook up to the height of the following stitches. It’s best to sl st before that so the chains are started from the first stitch. You’re not slip stitching because you’ve changed from sc to dc, you’re slip stitching so that your ch 3 (which typically replaces the first stitch of the following round) are at the position of the first stitch of the round, not the last stitch of the previous round.

            Unless you have a pattern that calls for a dc spiral (very rare), you should start each round of dc with a chain and end each with a slip stitch to close the preceding round.

            I’d just like to make this clear to anyone else reading: what I’m saying here is not at all relevant to the magic ring! It seems that by answering these questions here I’m confusing people. The way that you end a round and start the next one (in a continuous spiral or by joining with a sl st and chaining) can vary from pattern to pattern and it makes no difference whether you started with a magic ring or with the traditional chain method.

  29. MythedUp said

    Thank you for such beautifully clear instructions!

    I spent hours watching videos, looking at web tutorials and reading instructions in books on the magic ring. The pictures never made the method exactly clear and eventually I worked out my own way of doing it which was much more complicated. Now I finally know what I’ve been doing wrong! Utterly brilliant.

  30. Dick Huertas said

    i tryed 2 ordr 20 copee of ur book, but i get a blank page wit a box and a x in the corner i not good in english so it hard for i to get book and i want book for class in school we liv in tha phillipines. can i send u money for 20 copee of book?

    we use book in school for class. we have 20 studant.
    we wire money transfer. wut ur address mamm?

    • June said

      Dick, I have 14 signed copies of my book remaining for purchase in my shop, and I won’t be getting any more. If you’d like to order 20 copies of my book, you should order from a bookstore. If there aren’t any stores locally to you in the Phillipines, I know that will ship internationally. Amazon have much better prices than I could offer, anyway – at the time I write this, my book only costs $10.33 per copy! Here’s the direct link:

  31. Mindy said

    Hey there,

    After reading thru most of the comments especially towards the end of this post I need you to clear this up for me.

    I get from your tut. that you don’t need to sl st or ch when using the magic ring with single crochet.

    So, when you have a combo of stitches like single crochet in the fist round, and double crochet in the second round, do you chain & sl st?

    If you use other stitches like double/treble for the whole pattern using this magic ring do you chain & sl st?

    • June said

      Mindy, oh dear, it seems that I’m confusing people by answering people’s questions that aren’t really relevant to the magic ring technique… I’ll try to make it clear:

      • The magic ring is a technique for starting to crochet in the round. It replaces the traditional chain method and eliminates the hole left in the middle. You can replace the “ch X, make Y stitches in the Zth chain from the hook” in any pattern worked in the round with a magic ring – it doesn’t matter which stitch the pattern uses.
      • The way that you end your round and start the next one will vary from pattern to pattern. Some are worked in spirals; some are worked in joined rounds where you join with a sl st and then chain to begin the next round. If you’re following a pattern, you’ll use the method that the pattern recommends.
      • This tutorial was written from the point of view of making amigurumi, which are typically worked in continuous spirals. In general, you’ll only work in spirals if you’re working in single crochet – and, even then, there are times when it’s preferable to join with a sl st and chain between rounds. Unless you’re making amigurumi, you’ll most likely join and chain for any pattern, as working in a spiral means you’ll end up with the last round being higher at one end than the other, and that can be difficult to disguise.

      Here’s my final word on this:
      If in doubt, join your rounds (unless your pattern says otherwise, or you’re making amigurumi).

      I hope that’s cleared everything up now!

  32. Barb Schnepf said

    I’m having a heck of a time tyring to figure out how to make a dc with the magic ring. Can you explain it to me?

  33. Mary said

    great tutorial! I was finally able to make the magic ring! Thanks!

  34. Stephanie said

    ok, so I’ve seen patterns that say “start with a magic ring” and I’ve always just went ugg, and passed them by!
    Well NOW I do not have to! thank you sooo much! This tutorial really helped me and I got it right on my first try!! thank you!

  35. Kiki said

    After looking at a lot of different magic-ring tutorials, yours is the one that finally made me understand! Thank you so much for explaining!
    Kiki from The Netherlands

  36. MELISSA KROLL said

    Good Evening,
    I was reading how to do this magic ring! I can’t wait to learn and use it myself. I just have one really quick question. Can this type of ring be used on all projects that require a person in work in rounds or can it only be used on certain projects?

    • June said

      Hi Melissa! The magic ring is a technique for starting to crochet in the round. It replaces the traditional chain method and eliminates the hole left in the middle. You can replace the “ch X, make Y stitches in the Zth chain from the hook” in any pattern worked in the round with a magic ring – it doesn’t matter which stitch the pattern uses.

      One exception would be a pattern that starts with many chain stitches that you join into a ring and then work the stitches of Rnd 1 into that larger ring. A pattern like that is designed to intentionally have a hole in the middle, so I wouldn’t substitute a magic ring in that case. For any other pattern worked in the round, go for it!

  37. Kelly-Ann said

    I never crotchet anything before but I am bookmarking this, because I really want to learn how to do these things! Thank you for the tutorial :)

  38. Heidi said

    Hi June!
    I will be selling crochet patterns in my Etsy shop soon, and have written up instructions for making a “magic ring.” However, I know that many people will want more detailed instructions with photos of the process. After searching around quite a bit, I think that this tutorial is the most clear and has the best photos.

    So, here’s my question: May I refer people to this post if they need more instruction?


    • June said

      Heidi, of course you may! Good luck with your new patterns :)

  39. Pia said

    I normally use your magic ring.
    But how come almost every where else I look, the magic ring starts with a 3xchain that’s the first dc, and then dc as many stitches as needed?

    It is used for other things when starting this way, instead of a sc ring?

    • June said

      Amigurumi are worked in single crochet, so that’s why my magic ring tutorial shows it done that way. Other crochet patterns worked in the round, for example hat patterns, usually use taller crochet stitches like dc, because it makes the item work up more quickly, with fewer stitches than working in single crochet! But any pattern that’s worked in the round can use the same technique of working into a magic ring (with whichever crochet stitch the pattern uses).

  40. Hello :) This is a really brilliant tutorial! I hope you don’t mind that I linked back to this as part of a pattern on my blog?

    Much love,

    • June said

      I don’t mind at all! Thanks for linking :)

  41. Sara said

    No joke…this really changed my life. I was trying to figure out the other method and couldn’t get it. Now I can make my octopus!

  42. Beth said

    Thank you for the very clear Magic Ring instructions, I think I’ve got it!

    I’ve been crocheting awhile (mostly afghans) but I’m new to amigurumi, and I have one nagging question: Which side is the right (outside) side? Say, with your last picture of the pink ring – is the side with the tail hanging loose the outside, or the inside? They’re different, and I can’t decide whether to go along with the way it seems to be bending, or flip it the other way.

    I really appreciate your willingness to answer questions!

  43. Barbara said

    I have just mastered the magic circle. I am trying to do a snowman, it starts with 6 sc in the circle. I have to have 12 after the second round, then 18, then 24, then 30 and finally 36 sc. Do I need the extra chain that is always done the conventional way. I always seem to end up with an extra sc, which I don’t want, as I am doing it in a continuous circle and not a joining chain.

    • June said

      If you’re working in a continuous spiral, you DON’T use a chain between rounds. If you join with a sl st at the end of each round, you DO need a chain to begin the next round. (Which method you use depends on the pattern you’re using, or your personal preference.)

      Either way, I recommend you mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker after you complete it, to help you keep track of how many stitches you’ve made in the round and make sure you don’t overshoot the starting point!

  44. Thankyou for the fantastic explanation, it seems very clear but i am still having problems. When i try to pull it through like someone else says it pulls half way then stops. I am pulling very very hard but its like into a knot and wont go further.

    I am using quite a fine wool 5ply. could it be that this is too fine or something? it seems to be in the first loop area that the problem is happening cause where i have SC that mostly has pulled but i still have the big loop that i originally created :(

    • June said

      Belinda, I’ve been trying to think what your problem may be, and I have 3 suggestions:

      1. Are you definitely forming the loop in the way I demonstrate, not using the double ring method where you form two complete loops of yarn and crochet into both loops? The method for tightening a double ring is different and more complicated.
      2. Are you sure you’re crocheting over the loop correctly? Look closely at the photos and make sure you’re crocheting over both the loop and the starting end, as I demonstrate. (I plan to make a magic ring video when I have time that may show this even more clearly!)
      3. If you’re doing it right, it may just be that you’re forming that first round of stitches into the ring too tightly, so your yarn can’t slip through them when you try to close the hole. Try crocheting Rnd 1 more loosely and see if that allows you to pull the ring tightly closed.
  45. Thanks for posting. I’ve been trying to figure out how to make the rings with no circle in the middle for the longest. Thanks for helping me out!!

  46. Beverly said

    I LOVE it!!!

    • Gh said

      Is it really magic

      • June said

        You be the judge: try it and see! 😉

  47. renee said

    hello at last a clear pic of the magic ring i have looked at two You Tubes and looked at a few books but this is the best am so happy , as i am new at this and trying too make this childs dress with the granie tiny weeny crochets sq. by LP’s book . but will keep in touch with you always when i get good will order by for now thanks again Renee

  48. Kathy said

    Thank you so much for this clear illustrative instruction!!

  49. Thank you so much! I’ve been trying to figure this out and your instructions are simply awesome… I can’t wait to try it out.

  50. sri said

    I try to make the magic ring, but it won’t work ! when I pull the tail it’s stuck and don’t tight. I must be miss some thing. Please help me on this, thank you.

    • June said

      Sri, try crocheting into the ring more loosely – maybe your stitches are very tight and that’s why your yarn won’t pull through them.

      • Ashley said

        I had this same problem… I had the tail in the wrong direction. keep the tail in your palm and the yarn going to the ball going away from your hand (on the right side of the first pictures)

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    June Gilbank

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