Invisible Decrease
If you’ve been making amigurumi, you may be lamenting the gap or bump that forms when you decrease. The standard methods of decreasing are to sc2tog, which can leave a bit of a bump and a small gap, or to skip a stitch, which leaves an obvious gap. There has to be a better way… and there is! The invisible decrease really is as good as its name claims – it’s almost impossible to see, even if you know what you’re looking for. (See my blog post for a comparison of these three methods.)
The invisible decrease method will probably take a few attempts to master, but, just like the magic ring, it’s one of those techniques that’s so good, you’ll wonder how you ever crocheted without it!
Invisible Decrease for right-handers
Before we begin:
Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (2 loops on hook). DO NOT YARN OVER:
Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch. To do this, you’ll need to swing the hook down first so you can insert the hook under the front loop. (3 loops on hook):
Swing hook down…
…then up through the front loop of the next stitch
Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (2 loops on hook):
Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook. Invisible decrease completed:
Now let’s play a game: spot the decrease…
Good, huh? Give it a go with your next ami – I promise you won’t regret it…
Invisible Decrease for left-handers
Before we begin:
Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (2 loops on hook). DO NOT YARN OVER:
Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch. To do this, you’ll need to swing the hook down first so you can insert the hook under the front loop. (3 loops on hook):
Swing hook down…
…then up through the front loop of the next stitch
Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (2 loops on hook):
Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook. Invisible decrease completed:
Now let’s play a game: spot the decrease…
Good, huh? Give it a go with your next ami – I promise you won’t regret it…
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I read and appreciate every comment I receive - thank you! Please note that I only respond to comments here on the blog, so please return to this post to see my reply, or check the above box to subscribe to comments on this post by email. -June
Frida said
I LOVE YOU! Thank you for helping me with something that will make my amigurumis beautiful so that I won’t ever get tired of them looking awkward!
You just saved the Fridagurumi species! ?
Jessica said
This is a revelation – thank you so much June! My amigurumis will all be done using this technique now
tiny crochet ball pattern : julie kundhi said
[...] made, especially on the navy ball. You could see the white stuffing! Then I remembered this invisible decrease from Planet June. Problem [...]
Tania said
I found this helpful morsel via crochetme from Kim Werker….thanks so much! I am going to try this out for my next project. It looks terrific.
OT….what is the best yarn to use for amigurumis? I love that yarn you are using above..and I have only used yarns I have on hand..as I have to budget. If you need to point me in the right direction to read more on that, that’d be fabulous.
June said
Hi Tania, I don’t use any ‘special’ (i.e. expensive) yarns for my amigurumi. Most amigurumi are made with worsted weight yarn. I like the ‘soft’ acrylics best; you can find them in any big craft store and they aren’t too expensive (especially if you have a coupon, or wait for a sale): Bernat Satin, Red Heart Soft and Caron Simply Soft all have that nice sheen to them, are nice and soft to work with, and make very pretty amigurumi.
The other yarn I like, even though doesn’t have that sheen or softness (although it’s still softer than traditional ‘cheap & nasty’ acrylics) is Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice. It comes in amazing colours and it’s a little thicker than other worsted weight yarns, which makes for a good firm structure. You can see the difference if you compare, say, my AmiDogs (Bernat Satin) with my Dinosaurs (Vanna’s Choice).
I’ve just written a whole book of amigurumi information like this; if you’re interested, it’s called The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Amigurumi
Caz from Never Knew said
This is fantastic! I’ve never heard of this method, and I’m so glad that I’ve found your blog and these great instructions! Thank you SO MUCH!
Caz
Za said
WOW!!!
Virkarkivet - När du vill ha ALL hjälp samlat på ett ställe... - Saannis Virkskola - Ökning & Minskning said
[...] Finns på PlanetJune – Engelsk förklaring hur du går tillväga. Kommentarer (0) Kommentarer [...]
Dianne Unterbrink said
I cannot thank you enough for this tidbit of EXTREMELY valuable info,!! So many times, so many less-than-invisible results. But now, thanks to you, my projects can look more professional than I ever dreamed possible. You are my new best friend!!
jess said
So clever! Thanks for this tuturial.
ShirinElric said
Omg!! I was already getting frustrated by the wholes…
Thank you so much!!! I really needed this
Amanda said
How is it I’ve crocheted for decades and never heard of this??? Thank you sooooo much for sharing! You’re right, this will definitely be my go-to decrease method (just like magic ring is my go-to starter). Thank you!!!
Lori said
I have crocheted for over 40 years and never knew this Invisible Decrease. I am working on a project today, tried the decrease method above and it looks flawless. Just goes to show you CAN teach an old dog new tricks.
Thank you for sharing,
Lori
First Crochet Projects – Toys | It's Not Spaghetti said
[...] This also introduced me to the fantastic invisible decrease technique from planet june (found here: Invisible Decrease), and which I’ll use on everything that I can from now on! I crochetted this using a 4.5mm [...]
Emily said
This technique is fantastic! I’ve linked to it from my blog – I hope you don’t mind! Thanks for writing all your great tutorials, your site is really helping me get into having more satisfying fun with crochet! Em xxx
June said
Yay, I’m glad you’re finding my site helpful, Em, and of course I don’t mind you linking to me! In fact, thank you for doing so
Talia said
I think I’m the only person on here who can’t do this stitch. I am following directions exactly but still getting a noticible bump each decrease. Do u know what I could be doing wrong? Lol it’s driving me batty that I can’t get them neat! Love your site by the way
June said
Hmm, well without seeing your work it’s hard to say, but I have a couple of ideas for why it may be bumpy:
Good luck!
Ana said
Thank you for remembering us left-handers!! It is a pretty awesome decrease.
Amigurumi | Pattern | Tutorial | | Free Pattern & Tutorial at CraftPassion.com said
[...] [?] – single crochet decrease (invisible crochet is a better choice to prevent hole forming, photo tutorial, video) ch [?] – chain slst [ • ] – slip stitch Choice Of Yarn & Hook Size Read [...]
Jaki said
This is brilliant – thank you
SuellotoSlesk said
baie interessant, dankie
micheline laplaine said
hello ! bonjour
it is always agreable to discover many ideas to work, thanks to persons like you, thank you very much.
en français : c’est toujours agréable de découvrir les nombreux conseils que vous donnez, merci beaucoup. micheline from paris france
15 vinkkiä amigurumin tekemiseen « Toisen kerroksen tyttö said
[...] Näkymätön kavennus toimii kohdissa, joissa molemmat puolet virkatusta työstä eivät ole esillä (esimerkiksi yleensä nurja puoli menee amigurumin sisälle piiloon). Hyvän kuvallisen ohjeen näkymättömän kavennuksen tekemiseen löydät PlanetJune-blogista. [...]
Blaize said
As with the magic circle, which I did have trouble with I will admit, it makes absolutely no sense to learn a different, inferior, technique and then have to retrofit oneself with better options that are no more difficult than the less-satisfactory ones. The magic circle, the invisible decrease. I have been crocheting for only a couple years, and have only made crocheted creatures for less than one, but I do NOT understand why these are not standard in every pattern, taught at every juncture, and considered foundational, rather than extra frills or tricks one learns later, after struggling with problems one has no idea how to solve. Brava! and thank you.
Thea said
Just found your tutorial. Thank you so much! I’ve been making little baby balls and they were looking very gappy.
Thea said
Yup. That works great and very easy. Thanks!
sally said
OMG thats fantastic you have changed my crocheting for ever!!!
I always hated the way the decreases made my ami’s look, thank you, thank you, thank you
x
Julie said
I’ve been struggling with the ugly gaps in sc2tog for years… glad I finally thought to look for an alternative. Thank you thank you!!
Invisible Single-Crochet Decrease - Kim Werker's Blog - Crochet Me said
[...] over at Planetjune has a great tutorial for how to make an invisible decrease in single crochet. Go check it out, it works [...]
Rachel C. said
So can you just replace this for any sc2tog or dec? Can you do that?
June said
Rachel, you can replace almost any sc2tog or dec:
sarah said
Thank you!!! This blew my mind, I thought I was just crocheting wrong!!
Shanti said
Thank you!!! I’m not big in amigurumis but it’s always great to lear a new technique and this is absolutely fantastic!!!
Al said
Hi, thank you so much for this tutorial! But if it comes to a time when I make an amigurumi with the wrong side facing out, how do I do an invisible decrease?
June said
Al, if you’re working inside out (so the wrong side will be the outside) you can use the same technique, but go through the back loop instead of the front loop of each stitch when you make the decrease.
Al said
Thank you!!
Shar said
Great instructions! Any suggestions on how to do a sc-blo (sc-back loop only) decrease? I am making a hat (http://www.classiceliteyarns.com/pdf/LushAngoraCap.pdf) with alternating sc then sc-blo stitches for texture. I’m at now ready to work the decrease rows and was hoping your invisible decrease might be applied, rather than the pattern’s standard sc2tog decrease directions. The only hitch might be the alternating sc, sc-blo stitches and how to make the decreases look appropriate for the next stitch.
Thanks for the great tips! I think, with the help of your video, I can do a rsc edging on my baby beanies. Always wanted to perfect that stitch. You made it look simple.
shar
June said
I don’t think any kind of invisible decrease would work at all for that pattern, as the pattern says to work into the back loop of half the decrease and both loops of the other half. I don’t think there’s a better way to do it… You could try doing it as a sort of invdec by using the front loop of the 1st st (instead of both) and the back loop of the 2nd (or vice versa depending on where in the pattern you are), and don’t yarn over between the two loops, as with an invdec – but I don’t know if it would look any good!
Shar said
I was afraid of that. I’ll try your suggestion, as I was mulling the same thing over while attempting to apply your invisible decrease to this pattern. If all else fails, I’ll follow the pattern as is, despite its decrease issues. Thanks!
Tibbles said
It’s the only way I decrease now, thanks a ton!