Worsted weight yarn comparison

Worsted weight acrylic yarn is what I use and recommend for my amigurumi designs. That’s 100% acrylic yarn, marked as worsted weight, medium weight, or number 4. (Outside North America, it may also be called 10 ply or aran weight.)

worsted weight acrylic yarns

That makes it sound pretty locked down, and that any yarn you choose that fits those requirements will be exactly the same. Of course, if you’ve ever touched, let alone used, two brands of worsted weight acrylic, you’ll know that’s not the case. Thickness, loft (bounciness), stretchiness, softness, shininess – all these properties vary wildly between different yarns all marked as worsted weight acrylic, and that’s why I usually recommend that you don’t mix yarns within an amigurumi.

I thought it might be interesting to try to quantify some of this, as scientifically as possible. So, time for a yarn experiment!

The Contenders

I took 8 samples of worsted weight acrylic yarns, choosing a different colour for each so we can recognise them later:

worsted weight acrylic yarns

  1. Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (yellow)
  2. Caron Simply Soft (purple)
  3. Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn! (grey)
  4. Patons Canadiana (beige)
  5. Red Heart Soft (brown)
  6. KnitPicks Brava (red)
  7. Loops & Threads Impeccable (green) – Michaels’ store brand
  8. Bernat Satin (lime)

Test 1: wraps per inch (WPI)

Yarn thickness is often measured in terms of wraps per inch (WPI). To find the WPI, you wrap the yarn around something (e.g. a ruler) so the wraps are touching but not squashed tightly together, and count how many wraps fit into 1 inch. A higher WPI number means a finer yarn.

measuring yarn thickness: wraps per inch
Here there are 12 wraps between the 3″ and 4″ markers on the ruler.

My WPI results were consistently higher than the ones I found on Ravelry, e.g. Bernat Satin (pictured above) apparently has a WPI of 9, not the 12 I measured. But as I’m looking for a trend, not the actual numbers, that doesn’t matter – I measured each of my samples using consistent methodology, so the thicker yarns will have a smaller WPI number in my test.

Test 2: crocheted sample

I crochet with very consistent tension, as you can see by how even the stitches look in my amigurumi. So crocheting an amigurumi-style sample was the best way for me to ensure a consistent result for this test, plus it’s more relevant for amigurumi than a flat square swatch would be. I used an E (3.5mm) hook and crocheted a cup shape with each yarn, using the same pattern for each cup, and making sure the sample was large enough to measure the finished single crochet stitch width and height.

cup-shaped amigurumi sample

As you can see, the samples varied in size considerably:

cup-shaped amigurumi samples
These two samples were crocheted using the same hook and pattern, but the different yarns make a huge difference to the finished size! The Bernat Satin sample easily fits inside the Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice sample.

I flattened each cup to remove any inaccuracy from the 3D shape (it’s hard to measure an accurate diameter). To get an accurate measurement, I measured over 10 stitches and 6 rows to get my average stitch heights and widths.

An Aside: Watch Out!

Even within the same yarn, I’ve found that there can be slight thickness differences between different colours, but here’s an example of a larger difference: for years I’ve been talking with friends about how Bernat Satin seems thinner than it used to when I first started buying it, so I decided to try the WPI test with a sample of Bernat Satin that I bought in 2007.

After verifying that the change in the yarn was real (old WPI 11, new WPI 12), I checked the ball bands from several skeins of old and new Satin. All Bernat Satin has a weight of 100g, but the older balls were labelled as between 149 and 152m per 100g skein. All the newer balls are labelled as 182m per 100g skein. That’s 30 metres more yarn with the same total weight, which means the yarn really has got thinner (and the gauge information was never modified, although the gauge is definitely different since the change!)

So my little caution is to watch out – even if you’re buying the same brand and type of yarn, it may not have exactly the same thickness.

The Results

Yarn Sample Colour WPI Stitch width / mm Stitch height / mm
LB Vanna’s Choice yellow 11 6.2 5.5
C Simply Soft purple 13 5.4 4.8
HL I Love This Yarn! grey 12 5.9 5.0
P Canadiana beige 13 5.3 4.7
RH Soft brown 13 5.3 4.7
KP Brava Worsted red 13 5.6 5.0
L&T Impeccable green 11 6.3 5.5
B Satin lime 12 5.3 4.7

I arranged all the flattened samples by size here so you can see the difference visually too – 0.3mm per stitch may not sound like much, but you can see that it really makes a difference, even in a small amigurumi piece:

worsted weight acrylic yarns
Flattened samples from the top – the height of the samples shows the stitch width variation

worsted weight acrylic yarns
Flattened samples from the side – the height of the samples shows the stitch length variation

Now here’s the table again, this time with the yarns arranged in the same order as in the photos above. Italics show the thinnest yarns, and bold shows the thickest.

Yarn Sample Colour WPI Stitch width / mm Stitch height / mm
B Satin lime 12 5.3 4.7
P Canadiana beige 13 5.3 4.7
RH Soft brown 13 5.3 4.7
C Simply Soft purple 13 5.4 4.8
KP Brava Worsted red 13 5.6 5.0
HL I Love This Yarn! grey 12 5.9 5.0
LB Vanna’s Choice yellow 11 6.2 5.5
L&T Impeccable green 11 6.3 5.5

But it’s not just weight that plays a part; the yarns’ appearance and feel also vary. Old-fashioned acrylics felt hard and looked matte, whereas many modern ‘soft’ acrylics feel silkier to work with, and have more of a sheen to them. You may prefer a firmer, more rigid yarn for amigurumi, or like the shinier, softer look and feel. For me, I like both, but I’d never want to mix them in one project.

This final table of results is more subjective, but it’s my attempt to classify the yarns by which are similar enough to use within one project, both in terms of softness/shininess and weight. These are just my opinion, and I may have invented the term ‘light worsted’, but I feel it applies for subdividing the ‘worsted’ weight into strata of weights that match each other more closely.

Yarn Sample Colour Shininess Weight
B Satin lime sheen light worsted
P Canadiana beige sheen light worsted
RH Soft brown sheen light worsted
C Simply Soft purple sheen light worsted
KP Brava Worsted rust slight sheen worsted
HL I Love This Yarn! grey slight sheen worsted
LB Vanna’s Choice yellow slight sheen heavy worsted
L&T Impeccable green no sheen heavy worsted

So, I’d use any of the top 4 yarns (Bernat, Patons, Red Heart, Caron) interchangeably – they have a similar weight and sheen to them, and the size difference is no more than that between different shades of the same type of yarn. Of the remaining four, they make 2 pairs in terms of weight, but the KnitPicks and Lion Brand are far softer than the Hobby Lobby and Michaels’ store brands, and have more sheen, so I wouldn’t mix them.

Recommendations

  • Although some worsted weight yarns are thicker than others, all make good amigurumi! The only difference is the size of the finished result – they will scale correctly so using the same pattern with a thicker yarn will give you a taller, wider and deeper amigurumi – it will remain in proportion to the original design.
  • These results aren’t so important if you’re making simple amigurumi e.g. a brown bird with a yellow beak and feet, but if you’re making multi-coloured amigurumi with colour changes within the pieces, or more complex shaping, I recommend you use my results (and/or do your own test first), to make sure the yarns you’re selected are comparable in thickness, feel, and appearance before you start.
  • Don’t believe the gauge info when you’re comparing yarns for amigurumi! Only half the yarns I tested had crochet-specific gauge info, but according to those that did, you’d expect Vanna’s Choice (one of the heaviest yarns I tested) to be thinner than Red Heart Soft (among the lightest yarns in my test) – that’s clearly incorrect. The other gauge information (for recommended hook/needle sizes and knitting) seemed equally random/incorrect compared with my tests.

I hope you found my little experiment useful! I know it’s answered some questions for me, and now I’ll feel more confident about deciding to mix, or not mix, certain yarns in my future amigurumi projects.

71 Comments »

  1. Cindy G. said

    Thanks for posting this! When using different brands of yarn (now that I’ve progressed beyond the ever-affordable Red Heart Super Saver), I’ve noticed the difference, but it’s nice to see it so clearly laid out. I’ve bookmarked this post for future reference!

    • Birdie said

      Wow… I never knew that “worsted weight” would be so different in sizes

  2. Monica said

    Thank you so much for this! I will be coming back to re-read this entry! It is so useful and FULL of information. Anyone who crochets amigurumi or anything else will find this very helpful! Thanks June!

  3. Stocki said

    Really interesting and useful post – I had never even thought about how WPI could be useful to me….thanks! Do you mind if I put a link to it on my blog…I am doing a section on yarn soon and it would be a really relevant link ? :)x

    • June said

      Please feel free to link to any of my posts! :)

  4. Great post! Thanks for sharing.

  5. Chrisie Merriman said

    Awesome! I try very hard to stick to one brand in a project, but it’s nice to know which yarns I can mix together.
    I’ve also found variations in yarn thickness even within one ball when working with ombre/striped yarns. Do you know why that might be?

    • June said

      I could guess… If they dye solids and mix them together when they spin the yarn, there could be variation in the thickness of the component colours (is one shade always thicker than another?). If they form the yarn and then dye it ombre or striped later, maybe the different dyes react/absorb differently and that affects the weight in different regions of the yarn). Um… I think those are my only ideas!

  6. Else T said

    This is a tremendously helpful post. I am going to bookmark it for reference. Could you do one of these comparisons on wool- and/or wool-blend yarns? For example I love using Knitpicks wool of the Andes for amigurumi, as well as Lion Brand woolease (I like wool for toys). A wool post from you would be a great addition. Thanks for all you do, June!

    • June said

      I’d love to, Else, but I have no access to yarn out here in SAfrica… All these samples were from my existing stash. If any yarn companies read this and want me to review their yarns though, my address is on my contact page ;)

      • Birdie said

        Ahem… South Africa?? SOUTH AFRICA… An exotic place in my imagination… AMAZING! Why did i not know this? Wow… wish i were you

  7. Elizabeth said

    This is an amazing post! Thank you so much for taking the time to so clearly lay this out. I think it will be really helpful to a lot of people. :)

  8. queen of string said

    That was really interesting thanks for taking the time to really look at something we all suspected. The other thing that seems to vary a lot is behaviour when washed. They all seem to change, but in different ways, once laundered. I actually quite like super saver for stiff projects like amigurumi, that would definitely be in the bold part of the chart! It is one of the ones that changes a lot when washed, so less predictable for larger projects.

    • June said

      Yes! I saw a tip on Pinterest about washing RHSS before using it to pre-soften it. I couldn’t try it out for myself as I always found Super Saver so hard and rough that I never bought any (and of course don’t have access to it now) but I did try washing a skein of Loops & Threads Impeccable to see if that would make it softer – no luck; it’s still almost as hard and rough as before washing. The result of washing is obviously very yarn-dependent, as you say!

  9. Heidi said

    I have been touting this for years, C Simply Soft is one of my personal fave and it generally works up as if it were a 3 not a 4 same with RH Soft, Vanna is nice but not as soft. I really like Bernat Satin, but it is scarce around here.

  10. Simone said

    A very interesting article, thank you June!

  11. Very interesting, June. I usually use Bernat Satin, but I haven’t been very happy with how thin it feels. I think I will be trying more Vanna’s Choice and Loops and Threads in the future. (Oh! An excuse to go to Michaels!)

    • June said

      I’m not sure I’d recommend Loops & Threads… Well, actually, it depends what you’re looking for.

      I was startled at how hard it felt – even compared with Vanna’s Choice, it’s very firm, and compared with the soft acrylics, it feels rough and not pleasant to work with – it reminds me of the old-school acrylic that used to exist before the modern advances that produced softer acrylic yarns.

      But, that firmness does help the amigurumi to hold its shape; although it certainly doesn’t make a ‘soft’ toy for cuddling, it’s good for emphasizing the shaping. And it’d probably hold up to rigorous play very well!

  12. Jeannine said

    You always do it right! I’ve been interested in/planning to do this, too!–you beat me to it. Thanks so much for your commitment to excellence!

  13. I ran into the issue of different colors of the same yarn having different weights when I made a pair of Converse booties for a friend. The black and red were similar weights with the red a little heavier. The white was much thinner than either of the other yarns.

  14. Andrea G. aka SpringSplndr said

    Thanks for a very informative article!

  15. Lisa said

    Thank you so much for this informative post. Will definitely be referencing it later!

  16. Núr said

    I think this post is highly useful! :) Never trust labels! ;P

    I haven’t used any of these yarns you mention in your post, but I have lots of problems myself when I go to a yarn shop in my town and the shop assistant is unable to answer my questions regarding amigurumis… This turned out to be so stressful that I decided to choose a type of yarn I liked each time and, fingers crossed, hope it would turn into something beautiful! ;) I rarely get the size stated in the pattern, but I’m always happy with the result!

    In the end, the best advice is always to test each kind of yarn, isn’t it?

    • June said

      Yes, and adjust your hook size if necessary! I’ve decided to keep using Bernat Satin, but I’ll probably compensate for the thinness by using a smaller D hook (3.25mm) in future to keep the gaps between my stitches small enough for amigurumi. Finished size isn’t really important for amigurumi, but neat, closely spaced stitches is :)

  17. Brenda GA said

    This wonderful information that I will definitely use when considering yarn purchases for future projects. You did such a thorough job on this topic! As moderator of a knitting group, I posted the link and added it to our links section.

  18. yvonne said

    This information is really wonderful and incredibly informative. Thank you for checking out so many types of yarn! I have many types of yarn you tested out and some are just too rough and scratchy. As a newer crocheter, I tried to purchase some less expensive yarns and didn’t have the best results. I don’t always have the patience to crochet up swatches! When I see a pattern, sometimes I just grab what is around but now I will plan a lot more! Thank you June!

  19. Birdie said

    Hello Miss June
    I am 11 years old
    Look up White Terrier on Wikipedia please
    And tell me what you think
    Please make it an Ami Dog! And this test was helpful! Thank you so much!

  20. Holly said

    This post excited both the crocheter AND the nerd in me! Very useful info, thanks for taking the time to do the research.

  21. Etha said

    What a great article! Loved reading through it.
    The only thing that’s missing is how you “feel” about the different yarns :)
    Personally I do like the B. Satin the best to work with and the Vanna’s choice the least. I had knit a hat from the latter and it was pretty terrible, I do not like the hand of this yarn at all. From your pictures, I find the knitpicks look a bit disappointing as well, it looks rather fuzzy/irregular.
    Still looking for the “perfect” amigurumi yarn for me.

  22. Jessi said

    Thanks for doing the comparison June! Very interesting to see the difference… I mean I already knew that they are all liars and not all are the same (lol) but it’s another thing to see it all side by side for a visual comparison.

    It’s very frustrating, actually!
    I am doing a dress pattern right now that calls for Carons Simply Soft and a 5mm hook… Well I couldn’t find Carons so I am using Impeccable and I had to go down to a 3.75 mm and STILL my guage is bigger… Crazy!!

  23. [...] Worsted Weight Yarn Comparison. I found this post by @planetjune really informative; she shares the differences between various worsted weight yarns. [...]

  24. futuregirl said

    Hello, Yarn Scientist. I couldn’t love this post more!

  25. Ana said

    Amazing research and what great finds! Thanks for sharing!

  26. Amanda said

    This is one of those things I always knew but never could lock down. You did an excellent job.

    I write crochet patterns and find it frustrating that people have such varying sizes with the same “weighted” yarn. This post should be something everyone who follows a crochet pattern should read. Thank you

  27. avril said

    Hello June

    Is our chunky wool [here in South Africa] equivalent to worsted weight?

    • June said

      Hi Avril! It’s confusing, isn’t it?! Chunky weight is actually thicker (it’s a #5 on the ‘standard’ American scale). Worsted weight is equivalent to our aran weight :)

      You can use chunky yarn instead of worsted for amigurumi patterns – you’ll just need a larger hook too (I suggest 4.5mm) and you’ll end up with a slightly larger toy! You can see the difference in my post Sizing Up (and Down) – if you look at the elephants pictured in Method 2, the smaller elephants use worsted weight and a 3.5mm hook, and the larger blue elephant uses bulky (chunky) weight and a 4.5mm hook, all with the same pattern.

  28. Christine said

    I really enjoyed this article. It has very useful information, I too thought that all worsted weight was the same but as you point out different brands are really not the same. Thanks again for posting.

  29. Kellie said

    Such an awesome post, thanks for all the info. I will use this often.
    Thanks

  30. Dana said

    Great post! I plan to refer back.

  31. Sherrie said

    Thank you so much for this information! I’m super stoked to find any and all tips, tricks, advice, etc that will help me as I try to progress in my crocheting and knitting. I’ll be printing this out and keeping it in a binder (along with the hundreds of patterns I’ve printed) so I can refer to it when I go on my next shopping binge, um, I mean shopping trip, for yarn!

    Awesome site, by the way! Can’t wait to get lost in it!

  32. Hi June,

    I was wondering what your opinion on RH supersaver is. Most of my stash is composed of this yarn, and early on, working with this yarn I noticed differences in thicknesses between the colors.

    I may be hyper conscious, but there seems to be a negative stigma associated with this brand among many crocheters. I am looking to adjust my preference. I prefer matte sheens for amigurumi bodies, however for hair I would like to gain more of a shine. I also need something that is affordable. I would really appreciate your professional opinion in this matter. Another thing about super saver that I have come to appreciate is the wide variety of colors.

    Thank you for this wonderful post.

    • June said

      Heather, I must admit that I’ve never tried Red Heart Supersaver. My preference is for soft yarns, and, to me, RHSS always felt scratchy in the skein, so I preferred to buy Red Heart Soft and Bernat Satin (if you’re looking for something with more sheen, either of those would fit the bill). I’ve heard from several sources that you can soften RHSS up by putting the skein (without the label!) in a fitted fabric bag and running it through a wash and dry cycle – but I only heard that after I left Canada, and now I don’t have access to any US yarns to try it out for myself!

      I do agree that there’s some negativity associated with RHSS, but I don’t agree that it should be so. Yarns that are less soft actually make for a firmer amigurumi that holds its shape better, so that’s actually an advantage RHSS has over most of the pricier options. There are differences in thickness in many types of yarn, between different shades, and with changes in production over time. I’ve also heard from one of my customers that there’s a big difference in softness in RHSS, even within one colour, and you should squeeze each skein in the shop to make sure you buy the nicest one! So maybe RHSS is more variable than most, but that’s just a guess.

      I wouldn’t presume to advise you on which yarn is ‘best’ – that’s really a matter of personal preference. I can tell you that my favourites are Red Heart Soft and Bernat Satin (both very soft, with a nice sheen) and Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (less soft, but makes great shaped amigurumi and comes in some beautiful shades). If you’re happy with RHSS there’s no harm at all in sticking with it – don’t let any perceived stigma put you off. Some people react with horror at the thought of using any acrylic yarn, and I haven’t let that stop me! One of the lovely things about amigurumi is that you can customize a pattern by using a different colour, size (with appropriate hook adjustment), and type of yarn and you’ll still get a great result :)

  33. Monica said

    Thank you so much for this awesome post!
    After wandering around the yarn aisles in Joann Fabrics tonight for over and hour trying to figure out the difference between worsted weight and medium, I left still baffled bc every single yarn, even with the same weight, felt different to me! So not only did I find my answer in your post, I also found out why when I make two items for the same person, they are never the same size though I am very conscientious about my tension and using similar weight yarns. This page is being bookmarked ASAP.
    Thanks a million!

  34. Nina Babcock said

    June, I’m confused. I’ve been making baby items and keep coming across the words, “light acrylic or light worsted. Is this the same yarn? Thank you for your help. Nina

    • June said

      Nina, according to the standard yarn weight system, #3 light yarn is known as DK or light worsted weight, so you’ll need one category finer than worsted weight (medium, #4). That link I just gave is handy for translating yarn weights in patterns into a term you’re familiar with!

  35. Laura said

    Love this! I don’t make Ami, but even for things like an afghan, I get frustrated at the differences in weight/thickness. For example, I have noticed that Hobby Lobby ILTY in white is far thinner than other colors, so I don’t like using it. I’m glad to know the package info is often not correct, as that just confirms my suspicions!

  36. Jenn said

    Thanks so much for this post! I am still just getting started and have only played around with a couple brands of acrylic so far, even within the same brand and line I’ve found differences in the “feel” between darker or lighter colors. (This is particularly true with Red Heart Super Saver, but maybe that is why you did not include them here.)

  37. Michele C said

    Marvelous comparison work! I landed here from Pinterest pin. Thanks so much for putting together such important information and using great photos and graphs; I know that takes a long time. I have really enjoyed using Vanna yarn for crochet for a number of years, and now I know specifically why. — Michele

  38. Leah said

    Such interesting reading, June! Way back in 1982, I decided to make some play blocks for my sons using some of my cross-stitch patterns, foam, plastic canvas and acrylic yarn. In the process of stitching the designs, I discovered that (sometimes) there were great differences in thickness of yarns by color(!). Indeed,it was true of even the same brand, usually Red Heart. I remember having a devil of a time getting the red and black yarns through the holes!! And, another color ( can’t remember which), was so thin it barely covered the canvas.Still, it was lots of fun to do!

  39. Jena said

    Thanks for doing this. I have a stash of odds and ends, which I hope to turn into granny squares. So I was doing some gauge looking up but things just were lining up (for example, bernat’s super value was showing up as ‘thinner’ than red heart’s soft — which from experience I knew could not be true).

    Reading this it now makes sense why! Those little gauge squares they print on the label are interested in keeping the size of the swatch as the control, and so they vary the rest (needle size, stitch counts) giving measure as fitting to a specific swatch size. What I needed to do is keep the size of the hook as control and see how the swatch size varies.

    I think I’ll just have to do what you have done for my stash of yarn. That just about solves my problem. So thank you!

  40. Chris said

    Thank you for showing me the differences .I enjoy making hat s for my grandson I don’t always know how it will turn out hopefully this will help thank you

  41. Gwen Walker said

    Thank you for sharing this very useful information.

  42. Rochelle said

    Useful article, which I’ve bookmarked. The same variations exist on fingering yarn, with WPI varying from 16 to 22. It makes knitting socks most interesting!

  43. Amanda said

    Fantastic Blog. I was working with the new Caron Simply Soft ‘Light’ yarn and found that it came out more of a fine yarn than a light! I thought this blog was so great that I have shared it on my Facebook Fan Page. It might help crocheters understand why some of their work comes out smaller than the pattern describes etc… Thanks for a great post!

    https://www.facebook.com/CrochetItBaby

  44. Joey said

    Great info…..thanks for posting. I’ve just begun “re-learning” to crochet after being away from it for about 25 years. Of course, there are many more brands and types of yarns now, but I was having lots of trouble mixing and matching brands to get the colors I wanted for each project. This will help immensely.

  45. Stephanie said

    After using Simply Soft, Red Heart Soft, Vanna’s Choice, and Impeccable in a few projects, I was comfortable using Simply Soft and Red Heart Soft together, and Vanna’s Choice and Impeccable together, but I would never combine them any other way. I guess I subconsciously came to the same conclusion that you did scientifically. hehe. It’s nice to see it laid out logically, though. :)

  46. Rikky Reynolds said

    is there any other yarn i can use for so cute baby as we only have dk & chunky/bulky in south africa thx Rikky

    • June said

      I don’t know what ‘so cute baby’ is (a yarn? a pattern? either way, it’s not anything I’ve heard of), but I suggest you look on Ravelry to compare yarns and see which may be close to the one you’re looking for.

  47. SHeila said

    Hi June, do you know about which yarns pill, too? Do you think it’s related to the softness, or the content (such as acrylic)?

    We’ve shared this post with our machine knitting group; we’re all greatly interested (although we mostly knit with smaller than worsted yarns). I think there’s a difference among colors of yarns in the same line, too.
    :-)

    • June said

      Sheila, I’m sure there are various factors that contribute to pilling, but I don’t experience pilling with my amigurumi (they are low-wear items!) and none of the garments I’ve made have pilled yet either. That’s great for me, but it also means I can’t offer any expert advice on pilling as I don’t have enough experience with it to form an opinion – sorry!

  48. Talia said

    Thanks so much for this! I’ve noticed problems with given gauges before, but never knew how to handle it! Now, I have a step-by-step method to test yarns.

  49. Sandy Ghorbani said

    Thank you so much!! I have been crocheting since March of 2013 and I am now beginning to ‘need’ to understand yarn better. This is a big help for me. Again THANK YOU Sandy G.

  50. Gigi Lee said

    Hi June! Your article on yarn comparison was so helpful today! Wanted to thank you! G

RSS feed for comments on this post · TrackBack URI

Leave a Comment

Thank you so much for taking the time to leave a comment here! I read and appreciate every comment. I only respond to questions here on the blog, so please return to this page to see my reply, or check the above box to subscribe to new comments by email.

Please note that I can only answer questions related to PlanetJune patterns and tutorials (see details), and I can only respond to questions or comments written in English. Thank you :) - June

Current day month ye@r *

Please leave these two fields as-is:

  • Welcome to PlanetJune!

    June Gilbank Hi, I'm June. Welcome to my world of nature-inspired crochet and crafting. I hope you enjoy your visit!
  • Follow me

    RSS FeedSubscribe to my blog by EmailFollow me on TwitterFollow me on Facebook
    Friend me on RavelryWatch me on YouTubeFollow me on PinterestMy photostream on Flickr
  • Categories

  • Archives

  • Amazon Links

    Please support PlanetJune by clicking these links when you shop at Amazon:

  • Like me on Facebook

  • Follow me on Twitter